Deltacad print layers full#

It is just over 17' wide, so it will print OK if centered on 11x17 (tabloid) paper with the left and right edges being just off the edge of the paper. The AT template is centered on B size paper (12' x 18'). Not all holes and slots are valid for all models, so be selective. Use A4 or Letter for the 'two page' version. Use at least A2 or C size paper for the 'one page' version.

Use 122-107-77 for all three of those models. ModelF_XT Layout1.pdf Top plate template for 83 key XT Model F (21.34 KiB) Downloaded 648 timesĪn XT template is in the previous thread from Snufkin. Thanks to all for the comments on the foam in this thread, hope the template might be of use. Got it all back together just in time for the keyboard's 30th birthday.

Ended up more or less polishing it in the end, so decided to lacquer it rather than paint I figure there should be as much visible metal as possible. Top plate had gone a bit rusty, so I had to sand that back. It seems to match reality pretty well, the only things I'd change would be to move the tab holes a couple of mm further apart and use softer/thinner foam. I couldn't just spot one for the XT so I sketched out the attached one and printed it out over a couple of sheets of fanfold paper and used it to punch out a sheet of 3mm neoprene. Printing a template seemed like a good idea compared to trying to cut through the top plate. I wanted to get the keys cleaned, which meant dismantling it all to get the space bar out, which meant finding out that the foam was disintegrating, which led to stumbling across this thread.

I've just been playing around with an XT that's been lying around for a few years. Let us know if you decide to make an XT template. I can get them printed at a nearby FedEx office. Still selected, this profile cutline is currently 1mm proud of the “clearance edge”, so move it back, using the Offset Shapes tool once again… inward 1mm to coincide with the edge of the clearance area.Hypersphere wrote: Thanks for the F122 templates! I appreciate the larger all-on-one-sheet size. Still selected, now create another offset 1mm outward and then put it onto a third layer, the “inlay_profile” layer, with power and speed settings sufficient to cut completely through the material. Using the Offset Shapes tool once again, create a 5mm or so “clearance” area, (outward, outer shapes only) around the actual inlay, which will remove any material that will prevent the inlay and pocket from mating together. The right image, still selected from the move to the right, must now be mirrored horizontally. Also, it’ll speed things up to pay particular attention to what’s selected when finishing an Offset Shapes operation.… most often it’s exactly what’s needed for the next operation and saves confusion should you click elsewhere and deselect it. The left image, “pocket”, is essentially done.

Deltacad print layers full#

Side-by-side in Lightburn, you now have two images, 'pocket’ on the left, “inlay” on the right… differing by one full kerf-width. These relationships are important… if reversed, you’ll have ill-fitting parts, like the bottom-most inlay shown below… Then select all the outward edges and move them to the “inlay layer”… and, while still selected, move them to the right. Deleting the unneeded original “centerline” during the offset operation, you’re left with double lines, each one-half a kerf-width on either side of the original line.įrom there, select all the inward edges and put them on the “pocket” layer. I started with my inlay shape in outline mode and then offset all lines, BOTH inward and outward by 0.08 mm, about half of the 0.169 mm above… much like a 2-lane highway’s centerline and the adjacent lanes’ edge lines. So, then I started playing with the Offset Shapes tool in Lightburn. But when you start dealing with irregular male and female parts (pockets and inlay)… what’s “waste” and where is the “kerf” applied? It got confusing quickly and I kept getting worse and worse results. Normally “kerf offset”, as used in woodworking, is applied to the “waste” side of the cut… adjusted outward for outside shapes and inward for inside shapes. Divide that by 20 to come up with 0.169 mm for your laser’s full kerf-width… and use half that for kerf offset in Lightburn, when needed. Pushing all the segments to one end and carefully measuring the gap with digital calipers, I measured a 3.37 mm gap.